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The exosome effect

Dr Madhuri Agarwal shares her insights and experience as she explores the potential of exosome therapy for skin and hair rejuvenation.

In the realm of dermatology and beauty procedures, an exciting shift has occurred, thanks to exosome therapy. Exosomes are causing a buzz due to their ability to communicate between cells and their potential in various medical areas, especially aesthetics. But what exactly is exosome therapy, and why is it making waves in the Indian aesthetic space? Let us break down the basics of exosomes, their role in aesthetics, recent advancements, and ongoing research.

Getting to know exosomes

Exosomes are super small vesicles, measuring just 30 to 150 nanometers, that cells release into the surrounding environment. These vesicles contain bioactive molecules such as proteins, lipids, and nucleic acids, including microRNAs and messenger RNAs. Their main function is to facilitate intercellular communication by transporting these molecules between cells, thereby influencing various cellular processes. Moreover, they are primarily responsible for maintaining skin homeostasis, regulating cell proliferation, differentiation, immune response, and wound healing. Their ability to transfer biomolecules allows for the transmission of signals between different cell types, ultimately aiding in tissue repair and renewal.

Why exosome therapy?

Exosome therapy holds promise in dermatology and beauty due to its numerous positive effects on the skin and hair. These tiny vesicles work in multiple ways:

• Regenerating tissues: Exosomes kickstart tissue repair and healing, making them invaluable in aesthetic treatments.

• Balancing the immune system: They help maintain

inflammation levels and promote a healthy skin environment.

• Boosting cell processes: Packed with growth factors, cytokines, and microRNAs, exosomes help rejuvenate the skin and combat ageing.

Application in aesthetic treatments

Exosomes are finding their place in various aesthetic treatments:

• Scar reduction: Exosomes derived from mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs) exhibit potent regenerative properties that aid in scar remodeling and reduction. Mechanistically, various factors that potentiate scar formation include increased collagen deposition, decreased fibroblast apoptosis, protracted inflammation, excessive angiogenesis, augmented TGF-B1 expression, and delayed keratinocyte function. Exosomes have also been found to be involved in the intercellular communication required for scar formation. They can deliver cytokines and growth factors that stimulate the production of new collagen and elastin, which is shown to facilitate the reduction of scars. By modulating inflammatory responses, promoting collagen synthesis, and enhancing tissue regeneration, exosomes offer a non-invasive approach to improving the appearance of scars caused by acne, trauma, or surgery.

• Skin rejuvenation: The regenerative potential of exosomes extends to skin rejuvenation, where they stimulate fibroblast proliferation and enhance extracellular matrix production. This leads to improved skin texture, elasticity, and hydration, thereby reducing signs of ageing such as wrinkles and fine lines. Exosomebased therapies offer a novel and innovative treatment for long-lasting rejuvenation.

• Regulation of pigmentation: Exosomes play a pivotal role in melanocyte function and melanogenesis, showing potential for treating recalcitrant pigmentary disorders such as melasma and hyperpigmentation. Exosomemediated delivery of regulatory molecules is also known to modulate melanin production, leading to a more even skin tone and reduced pigmented lesions.

Rise of exosome therapy in India

In India, exosome therapy is slowly gaining attention in aesthetic treatments because it is unique and shows good results. Dermatologists across the country are looking into how exosomes can help with different skin and hair problems. Some Indian cosmetic brands are starting to create products based on exosomes for beauty treatments. There are plant-derived exosomes that are freely available in India and safely used by dermatologists. The human cell line-derived exosomes are still in the regulatory process, thus not freely available in India. There are also certain challenges, like making sure treatments are ethically safe, effective, and affordable. The goal should be for physicians, researchers, and regulatory bodies to work together and overcome these challenges.

Insights from clinical practice

As someone who works in dermatology and aesthetics, I have seen firsthand how exosome therapy can produce results for both skin and hair. I have witnessed gratifying outcomes with exosomebased treatments in my patients, particularly in scar reduction, hyperpigmentation, and hair regrowth. My patients appreciate this treatment for its minimal invasiveness, lack of downtime, and superior results, especially when combined with existing treatment protocols. Exosomes come in prepackaged vials that we utilise in our practice. Since these vials contain a predetermined and prepared quantity and quality of growth factors and peptides, the results are predictable and consistent. The procedure is straightforward, involving the use of a dermaroller or any other reliable electroporation device. We apply the exosomes after creating channels to ensure delivery into the dermis.

Advances and research

Recent studies have highlighted the promising potential of exosome therapy in facial aesthetics. Scientists are exploring new sources of exosomes and improved methods for their isolation. One exciting development is exosome-rich plasma therapy, which combines the benefits of exosomes with growth factors from platelet-rich plasma for even better results. Additionally, scientists are researching personalised exosome treatments tailored to each individual, offering the possibility of safer and more effective aesthetic treatments.

In conclusion

Exosome therapy is changing the game in aesthetic dermatology, offering a new tool to rejuvenate skin and hair. In India, it is on track to revolutionise aesthetic treatments, providing both dermatologists and patients with exciting new options for achieving youthful, healthy skin and hair. However, ongoing research, regulation, and innovation are necessary to fully harness the potential of exosome therapy. With continued progress, exosome therapy has the potential to redefine skincare and wellness, empowering individuals to feel confident and beautiful at any age.

“One exciting development is exosome-rich plasma therapy, which combines the benefits of exosomes with growth factors from plateletrich plasma for even better results.

About the author: With over 15 years of experience, Dr Madhuri Agarwal, Founder & Medical Director of Yavana Aesthetics Clinic, is a name to reckon with in the fields of dermatology and cosmetology, offering comprehensive aesthetic care. She regularly travels across the globe to enrich herself with the best practices and state-of-the-art technology, bringing them to Indian aesthetic aspirants. Dr Agarwal has been actively involved in training fellow dermatologists and aspirants in the art and techniques of laser treatments, facial rejuvenation, anti-ageing procedures, and dermal fillers.

This article appears in AMI Mag Feb-March 2024

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AMI Mag Feb-March 2024
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