Revive, renew, rejuvenate

Polynucleotides offer a revolutionary approach to skin rejuvenation by stimulating collagen, thickening the dermis, and providing long-lasting results, especially for delicate areas like the eyes, says Annalouise Kenny.

The polynucleotides injectables market in India is expected to grow at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 14.1 per cent from 2025 to 2030. The market is expected to generate US$ 5.6 million in revenue by 2030, up from US$ 2.4 million in 2024. The eye segment is expected to be the largest revenue generator, driven by the growing demand for non-invasive solutions for eye concerns. Annalouise Kenny, Founder & Educator, Skin Philosophy Training, elaborates on polynucleotides for skin rejuvenation, the ideal candidate, combination therapies and much more in conversation with Shriyal Sethumadhavan.

Polynucleotides for skin rejuvenation

Polynucleotides are derived from salmon or trout. They have a DNA structure very similar to ours, which is why they are quite effective. When we inject them into the skin, they stimulate fibroblasts to produce new collagen. They also promote dermal thickening. Sometimes, our dermis can become thin and flat, but polynucleotides help address this, which very few treatments can achieve.

In clinical trials, the results have been impressive, showing around a 40 per cent thickening over a period of about three months. Polynucleotides are mainly used around the eye area. I have personally had the treatment done around my eye area. The results have been effective – I have noticed fewer lines, thicker skin, and significant improvement, even from just one injection so far.

Buzzword in aesthetics

What we are starting to see with injectables is that they work a bit deeper and last longer. For example, botulinum toxin works on the muscle and typically lasts three to four months. Skin boosters, on the other hand, provide hydration to plump the area, but their effects eventually diminish. Ultimately, the goal of skin rejuvenation is to stimulate collagen, and the progressive collagen stimulation that polynucleotides offer over time leads to much longer-lasting results.

Additionally, dermal thickening is something that is difficult to achieve and is not provided by many treatments. Polynucleotides are effective in actually thickening the dermis, which has contributed to their success. The fact that salmon or trout DNA is so similar to ours also enhances their effectiveness, and the results have been promising.

Ideal candidate for polynucleotide-based treatments

Basically, this is for people with thin or darker skin around the eyes. For example, if you smile and notice crinkling around the eyes or directly underneath them – just in that area – then you should definitely consider this treatment. Also, if you have hollowing or darkening around the eyes, the treatment can help. Because it promotes dermal thickening, the skin becomes less thin and less see-through, which means the darkness will not appear as prominent. So, dark circles and lines under the eyes are definitely the main conditions it addresses.

The treatment

You can have injections, which are similar to skin booster injections – very superficial injections around the area. Some use serums containing polynucleotides and microneedling them into the skin. There is also electroporation, which involves using galvanic currents or anti-freezing techniques to push the ingredients into the skin. The most effective method is the injections, as they target the area directly. A minimum of two treatments spaced about three months apart is recommended for injections. If you are using microneedling, it is typically done monthly and is more suited for overall facial rejuvenation rather than specifically targeting the under-eye area.

“The goal of skin rejuvenation is to stimulate collagen, and the progressive collagen stimulation that polynucleotides offer over time leads to much longerlasting results.”

This is the beauty of any treatment that stimulates collagen. It is not like botulinum toxin, where the muscle relaxes, and the effect wears off after three months, or like skin boosters, where the hyaluronic acid eventually dissipates. With collagen stimulation, the breakdown happens naturally as part of the ageing process. For some people, the effects may last a year, two years, or even just six months. It depends on factors like the diet, stress levels, and overall lifestyle.

Combination therapies

Polynucleotides work well with microneedling, similar to how exosomes are used with needles. Imagine you are doing microneedling – you can either push water into the skin to hydrate it or use collagen stimulants to enhance it. Doing this once every couple of months, pushing polynucleotides into the skin through microneedling, is amazing for your skin because creams can only penetrate so much. This approach is really beneficial for the entire face.

Polynucleotides can also be combined with other treatments, like ultrasound, but I would recommend focusing on microneedling or injectables for optimal results. For example, dermal fillers can be used around the whole face or for specific areas like the tear trough. However, if you are concerned about doing tear trough fillers around the eyes, you could start with polynucleotides to see how well they work for you. Based on the results, you can then decide if you want to proceed with fillers.

Advise to practitioners

What I would recommend is to thoroughly evaluate the actual product. When a new treatment like this emerges, everyone tends to jump on the bandwagon, sourcing products from various places. However, it is essential to assess the results and review the clinical trials. Practitioners need to research where the product is coming from and how it is being sourced.

It is crucial to invest time in finding the best products with proven results because only a few options are currently available. Offering polynucleotide treatments without being certain of their efficacy and results is not worthwhile. Proper research and understanding of the products are key to delivering effective treatment.