Boosting beauty

Dr Saloni Vora-Gala explores the distinctions between skin boosters and dermal fillers, highlighting their unique benefits and the latest advancements shaping the future of non-invasive skin treatments.

The skin booster market in India is rapidly expanding, projected to reach US$ 45.62 million by 2031. Driven by the rising demand for non-invasive treatments that enhance skin texture, hydration, and elasticity, skin boosters have become a preferred choice among aesthetic practitioners.

Dr Saloni Vora-Gala, Clinical and Cosmetic Dermatologist, Medical Head at Dr Sheth’s Skin and Hair Clinics, Mumbai, in conversation with Shriyal Sethumadhavan, equips medical professionals with the knowledge needed to make informed decisions, ensuring optimal outcomes for their patients in an increasingly competitive aesthetic landscape.

Skin boosters vs. dermal fillers

Traditional dermal fillers are primarily used to add volume, definition, or contour to the face. In contrast, skin boosters serve a different purpose. There are various types of skin boosters, such as hydration boosters and bio-remodelling agents, which focus on skin repair, hydration, and improving skin quality.

Additionally, they help address fine lines and provide a natural, lift-forming effect on the skin, enhancing its overall appearance.

“Using the right posttreatment products, applying sunscreen diligently, and avoiding over-exfoliation can significantly extend the benefits of the booster.”

Injection techniques for skin boosters

There are multiple skin boosters available, and each booster requires a different technique. However, most commonly, skin boosters are injected intradermally or mid-dermally, whereas fillers are generally injected deeper.

For hydration boosters, the target area is divided into equal parts, often forming grids. Micro-droplets of the booster are then injected into each area using these grids as a guide. With newer bio-remodelling agents, there are specific techniques involving bio-aesthetic points, known as BAP points. In this method, injections are strategically placed in 5 to 10 areas to achieve targeted results, such as a subtle lift, under-eye rejuvenation using your body’s collagen and elastin, and more. Additionally, a newer approach involves the use of a cannula, typically utilised for only a few hours. Cannulas are particularly helpful for injecting boosters in tricky areas, such as the upper face or under the eyes.

Candidate assessment for skin boosters

In dermatology, most treatments are not one-size-fits-all. However, I am happy to say that skin boosters are an exception – they can be considered a one-size-fits-all solution. Even a person with normal skin can benefit from boosters because they focus on improving overall skin quality.

Given our constant exposure to sun damage, oxidative stress, and pollution, boosters work well to calm inflammation caused by these factors, as well as dehydration and environmental damage. So, in reality, anyone can benefit from boosters.

That said, not everyone may be open to injections. For this reason, I particularly recommend boosters for individuals with significant sun exposure, rosacea, eczema (where the skin barrier is weak), or certain types of acne scars. For example, after completing energy-based treatments for acne scars, if minor scars remain that cannot be further addressed with devices, boosters can be a game-changer.

They are also excellent for addressing fine lines, especially for individuals who do not want fillers under the eyes or in the neck area. In such cases, boosters provide a non-invasive yet effective solution.

Longevity of skin boosters

Skin boosters generally last anywhere between four to eight months, depending on the type of booster and the treatment protocol. Some boosters require just a single session and can last up to six months, while others may require two sessions spaced four weeks apart, followed by maintenance sessions every six to eight months.

The longevity of the results is influenced by several factors. One key factor is how consistently you maintain the treatment – boosters work by triggering your immune system, and regular sessions every six to eight months are necessary to keep the system activated.

Additionally, the patient’s skincare routine plays a vital role in maintaining the effects. Using the right post-treatment products, applying sunscreen diligently, and avoiding over-exfoliation can significantly extend the benefits of the booster. Other factors such as age, hormonal balance, and metabolism also impact how long the results last.

Proper aftercare and timely maintenance sessions are crucial to ensuring the maximum longevity of your skin booster treatment.

Contraindications and side-effects

The most common side effects are related to injection pricks, such as tiny bumps, mild redness, or occasional bruising. These are temporary and typically resolve within one to five days. Mild swelling may also occur but generally subsides within the same timeframe. Providing good post-care to the patient ensures these effects go away quickly. Rarely, vascular occlusion can occur. While this is a known complication of fillers, it can also happen with boosters if proper care is not taken. Practitioners need to have a thorough understanding of anatomy and maintain precise injection techniques to minimise risks.

“I integrate boosters with chemical peels or treatments for contouring and tightening, such as HIFU (High-Intensity Focused Ultrasound) or MNRF (Microneedling Radiofrequency) for scars.”

Aftercare and maintenance tips

Aftercare is crucial to ensure the best outcomes and minimise complications. I advise my patients not to touch or wash their face for at least 12 hours and avoid applying makeup for 24 hours. I provide them with a post-care cream, usually an antibiotic, to be applied for three to five days to prevent any secondary infections, as multiple pricks are involved in the procedure.

I also recommend avoiding swimming, steam, or sauna sessions for about 7 to 10 days. If patients are combining other treatments, such as chemical peels or energy-based devices, I ensure there is a sufficient gap between the booster session and those treatments, as it depends on the specific procedures they are undergoing.

Lastly, consistent skin protection, including using sunscreen and moisturizer, is essential to maintain the results and overall skin health.

Effective skin conditions

Skin boosters are particularly effective in conditions where the skin barrier is compromised. For example, in cases of rosacea or eczema, boosters help to strengthen and repair the barrier. Even for acne, which can be highly inflammatory, skin boosters can make a significant difference. Acne treatments, including medications and topical creams, often dry out the skin. I have observed that when I combine boosters with other acne treatments, the results are much better. Boosters not only enhance the skin’s hydration and barrier repair but also make other treatments more effective, leading to improved overall outcomes.

Combination treatments

The key to a successful aesthetic practice is combination treatments. Monotherapy, using only one treatment, often does not yield long-lasting or satisfying results. I frequently combine skin boosters with other treatments. For example, I integrate boosters with chemical peels or treatments for contouring and tightening, such as HIFU (High-Intensity Focused Ultrasound) or MNRF (Microneedling Radiofrequency) for scars. Of course, I ensure the necessary gaps between treatments based on the specific protocols.

And how does that impact the result? For instance, with patients suffering from inflammatory acne or rosacea accompanied by acne, the skin barrier is often already compromised. Anti-acne creams can further weaken the barrier, making it challenging to treat. In such cases, I use skin boosters alongside traditional antiacne treatments. The boosters help with hydration, skin repair, and barrier restoration, and they reduce inflammation.

Additionally, many acne patients also undergo chemical peels. Here, the boosters strengthen the skin barrier, allowing them to tolerate other treatments better, ultimately leading to improved outcomes. Similarly, for acne scars or patients seeking firmer, more toned skin without opting for fillers, I combine energy-based devices with boosters. This combination delivers better, more comprehensive results for skin texture, tone, and overall quality.

Recent innovations

Exosomes are cellular messengers found in all body cells. They pass messages between cells, helping regulate repair, regeneration, inflammation reduction, and blood flow. These messengers have bioactive proteins, pro-factors, and nucleic acids that communicate with the skin, contributing to skin quality improvement and reduced inflammation. Exosomes are commonly used for hair regrowth and skin boosters, typically having minimal side-effects and being suitable for most patients. Multiple sessions are generally required, but the results have been quite effective.

PDRN stands for polydeoxyribonucleotide. The PDRN we use is derived from salmon sperm. Although it may sound unusual, it involves extracting DNA, which shares similarities with human DNA. PDRN helps in skin repair and hydration, particularly beneficial for conditions like melasma, pigmentation reduction, pore minimisation, and improving overall skin texture.

Future outlook

Regenerative medicine and skin quality boosters are the future because we are in an era where aesthetic awareness is increasing. More and more people are seeking treatments, but there is a growing category of patients who prefer non-invasive options. They do not want fillers or injectables but rather something derived from their own bodies, something that complements their natural healing process.

These boosters, many of which have been around for years like PRP and GFC, fit perfectly into this natural aesthetic practice. So, I see a growing demand for these types of non-invasive, biobased solutions.

“Regenerative medicine and skin quality boosters are the future because we are in an era where aesthetic awareness is increasing.”