Aesthetic Treatments & Trends Unveiled

Aesthetic medicine in India is booming, with a range of treatments and trends on the rise. From combination therapies to upcoming advancements like exosomes, the field offers exciting opportunities for individuals seeking to enhance their appearance.

L-R: Dr Ami Shah, Dr Geeta Patel, Dr Rupali Pavaskar, Dr Ajay Hariani.

Aesthetic medicine is currently the most rapidly expanding medical specialty in India, with a valuation of over Rs 40,000 crore and an annual growth rate of nearly 10 per cent. This sector encompasses products, machinery, and services, and is witnessing advancements in aesthetic trends as people increasingly focus on their appearance and well-being. The demand for both invasive and non-invasive treatments is on the rise, but reports suggest that non-invasive procedures will experience significant growth and continue to gain a larger share in the aesthetics market.

Zoom in to the recent past

The pandemic forced the world into isolation, connecting everyone through screens. It provided people with an opportunity to see themselves in a prolonged manner, leading them to notice their flaws and evaluate their appearance. Additionally, the extended exposure to blue light worsened matters. As aesthetic medicine clinics resumed their services, individuals eagerly sought ways to improve their looks.

During the pandemic, social media experienced increased engagement. Influencers, beauticians, doctors, and technicians collaborated on various platforms to raise awareness about physical appearance, treatments, and available options. This heightened awareness and self-evaluation prompted a surge in visits to dermatologists and cosmetic experts by the general public.

Combination therapies and cosmetic products

With the power of the internet, awareness about various treatments has significantly increased. Terms like hyaluronic acid and retinol have become a part of everyday conversations. However, it takes the expertise of professionals to understand the effects of mixing different cosmetics. According to

Dr Rupali Pavaskar, Dermatologist, Cosmetic Dermatologist & Trichologist, Dr Rupali Pavaskar’s Clinic & Transforme Dermo-Cosmetic Center, a renowned dermatologist, “Multilayering cosmetics may not always be feasible. In such cases, the best option is to use a combination product that suits the skin type. This avoids potential interactions between preservatives and stabilisers found in different products while providing long-term effects.”

Dermatologist-approved trends like skin cycling and slugging have also gained popularity. Skin cycling involves a multi-step routine that includes scrubbing, hydration, face masks, and more. It enhances hydration without causing excessive damage to the skin from scrubbing. Slugging, on the other hand, involves applying petroleum jelly on top of moisturizer or target-specific creams like retinol. Dr Geeta Patel, Dermatologist, Zahra Skin & Laser Clinic, emphasises the importance of knowing the right products and understanding one’s skin type to achieve the desired results when practicing slugging.

Oxipod or hydration facials have also become quite popular and are considered safe for all skin types and occasions. Dr Pavaskar even recommends using oxipod facials for brides. She also advocates for peeling facials combined with glow masks, stating that “the glow lasts for more than a month with peel and glow masks.”

Plastics, lasers, and minimally invasive procedures

Over the past few years, the realm of minimally invasive procedures has witnessed remarkable growth. Increasingly, people are embracing these innovative treatments. Botulinum toxin, once considered exclusive to celebrities, has now gained popularity among the general public. One notable example is buccal fat removal or dimple creation. Dr Ajay Hariani, Practicing as Cosmetic Plastic & Laser Surgeon, explains, “Buccal fat removal is a relatively straightforward yet delicate procedure. The fat in the cheeks is soft, and excessive suction can result in the loss of all fat. Therefore, careful handling is essential. This procedure is typically performed to achieve a more feminine appearance; however, patients must understand that once the fat is removed, it is gone permanently. There is no reversal.” Dr Hariani references the case of Gigi Hadid, a renowned supermodel who underwent this procedure to enhance her facial features. Additionally, he advises against using PPC (Polyester Poly-Caprolactone) for buccal fat removal, recommending injection lipolysis as an effective method to remove fat deposits and reduce double chins.

Expanding applications: off-label treatments

Patients are increasingly seeking off-label uses for aesthetic treatments, including eyebrow lifts, jaw slimming, gummy smile correction, and migraine relief. Vaginal tightening has emerged as a growing trend, while buttocks and breast augmentation using toxins and fillers have reached peak popularity. Dr Hariani recommends a Radiofrequency technique for its anti-ageing effects, effectively reducing acne scars and tightening the skin. The use of threads has also proven versatile across various procedures. However, he maintains caution regarding their shelf life and prefers smaller stock orders.

Dr Pavaskar expresses enthusiasm for using different types of threads in various procedures, noting their impressive results, quick recovery time, and long-lasting effects.

While PRP (Platelet-Rich Plasma) is widely utilised in many treatments, GFC (Growth Factor Concentrate) offers superior outcomes. Dr Ami Shah, Dermatologist, Shah Skin Care & Laser Center, explains, “Unlike PRP, which solely uses blood, GFC incorporates blood, adipose tissue, and certain enzymes, resulting in better results.”

Innovative aesthetic choices

Microblading and semi-permanent makeup have experienced a surge in popularity in recent years. Notably, Angelina Jolie serves as a prominent example of beautifully defined eyebrows. However, the trend of overly voluminous lips has faded, making room for a preference for natural aesthetics in 2023. Increasingly, individuals seek hydrated, proportionate lips adorned with permanent lip colour and exquisitely shaped eyebrows.

The achievement of these desired results is made possible through microblading and nano-blading techniques. These procedures offer significant benefits to patients dealing with alopecia, and hypothyroidism, and those who have overcome the battle against cancer. Dr Shah highlights an intriguing observation, stating, “I have witnessed more cases involving the removal of permanent makeup than actual requests for the procedure.” This can be attributed to the continued prevalence of insufficient skills and knowledge within the realm of permanent and semipermanent makeup. It is crucial to entrust the application of microblading and lip colouring to competent professionals, avoiding unregulated practices.

Controversial practices: examining trends

While the majority of trends within the field of aesthetic medicine offer harmless opportunities, there are certain practices that pose more harm than benefit. One such trend, influenced by Bollywood, is IV Glutathione. Across industry professionals, IV Glutathione remains a subject of controversy. Most practitioners only perform this procedure upon patient request, ensuring a thorough explanation of all associated risks, and providing a safer environment for the treatment.

IV Glutathione is primarily sought for its skin-lightening effects. The continued allure of fairer skin persists among many individuals, contributing to the popularity of this trend. However, it should be noted that the process is ongoing and requires adherence to standardised protocols. Discontinuation of the treatment leads to a reversion to the individual’s normal skin tone, potentially causing physical, emotional, and psychological damage. Dr Hariani explains, “IV Glutathione targets the melanin pigment to achieve the desired lightening effect. However, melanin also plays a role in hair colour and may result in premature greying, albeit to a lesser extent. This is one of the evident sideeffects observed among patients.”

Unveiling promising prospects

Exosomes, the cutting-edge treatment, are poised to captivate both practitioners and patients with their remarkable outcomes. While not yet available in India, they generate significant anticipation within the industry. Exosomes, as powerful regenerative medicine, utilise nanoparticle technology to facilitate healing and repair. The Indian market will soon witness the availability of application exosomes and injectable exosomes. With the ongoing advancements in artificial intelligence, social media marketing, and emerging platforms, it is not difficult to envision a transformative future for aesthetic medicine. Indeed, it is an exciting time to be a part of the field.

(The above insights were gathered from a panel discussion at the recently concluded Aesthetic Medicine Conference in Mumbai.)