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Topical application of vitamin C is getting wider acceptance in skincare routine. But what does it entail for patients undergoing acne and acne scar treatments? We get skin experts to give us a better understanding on how topical vitamin C works in an exclusive feature powered by Orange Daily .

A ccording to the American Academy of Dermatology, “Topical Vitamin C should be used by everyone every day. No other product ingredient provides more therapy to the skin than topical vitamin C.”

Vitamin C is known to have skin benefits as its antioxidant properties help neutralise free radicals, giving the skin a range of benefits from anti-ageing to reduction in hyperpigmentation.

In recent times, topical application of vitamin C has gained popularity, and end users are spoilt for choice with the slew of products available in the market. Therefore, it is important to understand the different types of active vitamin C and their effects on skin health.

1. L-ascorbic Acid

Normal skin type can use a product with pH less than 4, while sensitive skin types should look for a pH of 5 -7

2. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

It is used in serums that contain higher concentrations as compared to creams or lotions.

3. Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

It is helpful for acne-prone skin types, as it can prevent the oxidation that leads to blackheads.

4. Sodium Ascorbate

When paired with Vitamin E, you get more UV defence, free radical protection and overall nourishments.

5. Calcium Ascorbate

It plays a pivotal role in collagen synthesis, tissue and wound repair, and antioxidant defence

6. Ascorbyl Palmitate

It aids collagen production, mitigates hyperpigmentation and improves skin texture.

Here we are specifically addressing the use of topical vitamin C for acne and acne scars.

We get subject matter experts to voice their opinion and give us insights on the topic

“Vitamin C treats acne scars by increasing the body’s natural production of collagen”

IMPORTANCE OF TOPICAL APPLICATION OF VITAMIN C

Topical vitamin C is a dermatologistfavourite ingredient that may help slow early skin ageing, prevent sun damage, and improve the appearance of wrinkles, dark spots, and acne. Vitamin C is an antioxidant - it fights harmful free radicals that come in contact with your skin from external sources like air pollution, or from inside the body as a result of normal processes like your metabolism.

ACTIVES IN ACNE TREATMENT

● Benzoyl peroxide is widely used for acne treatment as it works by killing the bacteria on your skin. It also helps to unclog pores by removing dead skin. It is usually well-tolerated by most people. But it causes bleaching and can lead to discolouration of hair and fabrics.

● Salicylic acid -Many over-the-counter and prescription skincare products for acne-prone skin contain salicylic acid. It’s a beta hydroxy acid, which is an exfoliant and removes dead skin. This helps prevent your pores from getting clogged.

● Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) treat acne by removing dead skin cells and reducing inflammation. They also improve the appearance of acne scars by stimulating the growth of new skin. Two types of alpha hydroxy acids found in acne products are glycolic acid and lactic acid.

● Sulphur is often combined with other ingredients like benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid. It removes dead skin cells that clog your pores. It also helps remove excess oil (sebum) that may cause breakouts.

● Adapalene is a topical retinoid used to treat acne. Retinoids are vitamin A-based products that are best known for treating aging skin. Adapalene can help prevent new breakouts and unclog pores. It’s available in different forms and strengths. A 0.1 per cent gel can be found as an over-thecounter treatment.

● Azelaic acid has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. It also helps prevent buildup of keratin, a protein that can clog pores.

● Officially known as ascorbic acid, vitamin C is an antioxidant and has anti-inflammatory properties. It can help decrease redness and swelling in acne-prone skin.

‘SCAR’ THEM AWAY

Acne scars can develop from mild to extreme cases. They form due to a loss of skin tissue and collagen, resulting in small indentations. Vitamin C treats acne scars by increasing your body’s natural production of collagen. It helps to rebuild your skin so that you have a healthier, more vibrant epidermis. It contains antiinflammatory properties. It can help limit redness and swelling that typically comes after a breakout.

Hyperpigmentation can form due to acne, injuries or UV rays.

Vitamin C contains an enzyme called tyrosinase, which helps produce melanin, a natural skin pigment. It also functions as a brightening agent, which helps lessen the appearance of darkened spots.

SIDE EFFECTS

● itching

● redness

● skin irritation

● tingling sensation upon application

While some people might experience a slight burning or tingling sensation when using the serum, it should not last long. If the burning continues or you see signs of an allergic reaction, such as swelling or hives, you should immediately wash away the serum.

ACTIVE FORMS AS PER SKIN TYPES

The serum is the best and the most common way to deliver high concentration of active vitamin C into the skin. It enhances the penetration into the skin and keeps vitamin C stable.

1.Sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP)

It is the best vitamin C serum for acne-prone skin types. SAP is a naturally occurring water-soluble form of vitamin C for oily skin. It is made by combining ascorbic acid with salt and phosphate. It is the most stable form of vitamin C, meaning it does not oxidise.

Once you apply SAP to your skin, it converts into ascorbic acid, the purest form of vitamin C. The conversion process makes it less active and unlikely to irritate the oily/ acne prone skin. Its benefits include:

● Brightens discolourations from scars and acne

● Soothes inflammation and irritation

● Reduces the visibility of acne scars by enhancing collagen production

● Protects against free radicals that may cause acne

● Evens out skin tone by reducing melanin production

● Has Antimicrobial benefits

2. Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (EAA)

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (EAA) is another stable derivative of vitamin C soluble in oil and water. It is commonly used in topical formulations as an anti-ageing and antioxidant component. This derivative is mostly suitable for normal skin types.

With the fast absorption of EAA into the skin, you are assured of getting great results. More than 80 per cent converts to pure L-ascorbic acid, making it the most effective form of vitamin C in skin brightening and enhancing collagen synthesis. It is widely used in hyperpigmentation treatment products as a tyrosinase inhibitor.

3. Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (AT)

Your skin is made of a lipid layer keeping germs out and moisture in. Being an oily layer, it does not allow any water-based products to penetrate your skin quickly.

AT is soluble in oil as it is produced by combining vitamin C with Isopalmitic acid.

This enhances its ability to penetrate the skin effectively. It reduces dullness, fine lines and wrinkles and promotes skin firmness without clogging the pores and works on all skin types.

4. L-ascorbic acid

It is the most unstable and researched form of vitamin C effective in penetrating the skin. L-ascorbic acid is water-soluble, and exposure to air and light may render vitamin C inactive. Ensure that the holding bottles are dark, opaque and airtight to keep the content stable. It is the best vitamin C for all skin types with a bit of adjustment to its concentration levels. It is most beneficial for people with normal and oily skin but may have adverse reactions to sensitive skin types.

“Different forms of vitamin C react differently with skin types”

Topical vitamin C is an antioxidant and, nowadays, it is one of the favourite dermatologist-molecules. It fights harmful free radicals, which come in contact with the skin and improve the overall appearance of skin.

Topical vitamin C may help in slowing down the early skin ageing, prevent sun damage and improve the appearance of wrinkles, dark spots and post acne marks.

For the best results in using topical vitamin C for acne, incorporate its application in your skincare regime. Using topical vitamin C in serum form is more effective than creams or toners. Sodium ascorbyl phosphate is the best vitamin C serum for acne-prone skin types. It is a naturally occurring water-soluble form of vitamin C. It is made by combining ascorbic acid with salt and phosphate.

It is the most stable form of vitamin C, meaning it does not oxidise.

L-ascorbic acid can also be used, which is the active form of the vitamin. Topical vitamin C soothes inflammation and irritation; reduces the visibility of acne scars by enhancing collagen production; protects against the free radicals that may cause acne; and gives even skin tone by reducing melanin production. It also has anti-microbial benefits.

With consistent use, vitamin C can help improve the appearance of acne scars in several ways. It can help prevent the formation of acne scars by improving skin health. During the process of scar healing, vitamin C treats acne scars by increasing the synthesis of collagen, a protein responsible for your skin’s structure and vital for rebuilding healthy skin. As a result, this vitamin may accelerate the healing of acne wounds and reduce acne scarring.

Vitamin C is one of the most popular ingredients in skincare and has different forms with varying properties. Different forms of vitamin C react differently with skin types.

● Sodium ascorbyl phosphate is the best vitamin C serum for acne-prone skin types. Since it does not oxidise, it is easy to incorporate SAP into varying product formulations without losing its efficacy. Once you apply sodium ascorbyl phosphate to your skin, it converts into ascorbic acid, the purest form of vitamin C. The conversion process makes it less active and unlikely to irritate.

● Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is another stable derivative of vitamin C soluble in oil and water. You can find it in white crystalline powder or crystals. It is commonly used in topical formulations such as anti-ageing and antioxidant components. More than 80 per cent EAA converts to pure L-ascorbic acid, making it the most effective form of vitamin C in skin brightening and enhancing collagen synthesis.

● L- ascorbic acid is the most unstable form of vitamin C effective in penetrating the skin. L-ascorbic acid is water-soluble, and exposure to air and light may render vitamin C inactive. When shopping for this form of vitamin C, ensure that the holding bottles are dark, opaque and airtight to keep the content stable. L-ascorbic acid is the best vitamin C for all skin types. A concentration of 10 per cent is enough for uneven tones, while stubborn pigmentation requires a higher concentration of 15-20 per cent

● Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is produced by combining vitamin C with Isopalmitic acid. It is soluble in oil, enhancing its ability to penetrate the skin effectively. While vitamin C works for all skin types, ensure that you choose the correct form for your skin type.

Catqua Satudeat. Mussilic orurimussa mant? Ivertelus in sent.

“Vitamin C decreases melanin production by inhibiting melanin synthesis”

There are six different active forms of vitamin C. First one, which is commonly used is L-ascorbic acid, the second one is Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, third one, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, the fourth is sodium ascorbate, fifth is calcium ascorbate and the sixth one is Ascorbyl palmitate.

Out of these, L-ascorbic acid is commonly used. Normal skin types can use a product with pH less than 4 and sensitive skin types can use a product with pH 5-7 to avoid the irritation. When it comes to dull, pigmented or uneven skin, the concentration of L-ascorbic acid, which is used approximately 10 to 15 per cent.

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is the most stable form of vitamin C. It has hydrating properties and can soothe the skin irritation with its anti-inflammatory properties. This is great for acne prone skin types, as it can prevent the oxidation that leads to blackheads. Also, in acne prone, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate plays well with niacinamide and these two ingredients can be applied topically together.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate is less potent than L-ascorbic acid. But this, when applied on the skin gets converted into ascorbic acid. Therefore, it’s less active, but at the same time, it’s less irritating and it is beneficial for sensitive skin types.

Ascorbyl palmitate is a fat-soluble derivative of vitamin C and hence it’s nonirritating, which is good for sensitive skin.

Properties and uses

Vitamin C has a hydrating effect. It also has a brightening property. It decreases the melanin production by inhibiting melanin synthesis by down regulating the activity of enzyme Tyrosinase. This helps to decrease the pigmentation and dullness, giving glowing and youthful skin.

Vitamin C also has an anti-inflammatory property and helps decrease the redness on the skin, giving it more of an even complexion along with combined reduction of dark spots, redness, irritated skin, making the skin look clearer and smoother. It also helps decrease dark circles as well.

Vitamin C promotes collagen reduction. It helps in boosting the collagen production through the process of collagen synthesis, leading to increased skin elasticity and firmness and thus help to decrease the skin sag.

Vitamin C also has an antioxidant property. Free radicals are major culprits of skin ageing. Antioxidants are molecules that reduce or counter the effect of these free radicals. And hence, it helps to prevent sun damage.

Vitamin C with other ingredients

Vitamin C can be mixed with alpha hydroxy acids, the retinols, hyaluronic acid, ferulic acid, vitamin E, also with sunscreens and Alpha-lipoic acid. Also, combining the vitamin C with other ingredients increases its stability.

Packaging of vitamin C

Vitamin C is water soluble and oxidises easily when exposed to air. The oxidised form is ineffective. Hence it is packed in amber coloured bottles or air-restrictive bottles or pumps so that it remains stable for a longer period of time.

“Because of its excellent safety profile, vitamin C has become one of the most popular cosmeceutical agents”

Vitamin C is a very unstable molecule. It is very important that we utilise the active form of vitamin C, because if we use the unstable form of it, it is oxidised very fast and if you apply this molecule on the skin, it itself can give a lot of acne. Hence, I use vitamin C very cautiously with acne. If I have to use it, I use the serums, which contain ethyl ascorbyl phosphate.

Vitamin C helps for collagen synthesis also and it also has antiinflammatory effects also. Hence it can be used in patients with pores, acne, scars, specially patients who have even redness with acne scars.

It’s really effective with such patients.

Variety of uses

There are no contraindications for the use of vitamin C, as I said it’s an unstable molecule so whenever you are using it in patients with acne prone skins, be very cautious while using it. Some people may have some allergic reactions to vitamin C so I would say, do not use it for these patients.

Vitamin C is one of the most popular antioxidants. It has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, neo collagènes and skin lightening properties. Because of its excellent safety profile, it has become one of the most popular cosmeceutical agents. However, the oral vitamin C, the bioavailability of oral vitamin C is very inadequate, hence topical formulation of vitamin C became very popular. It has an excellent UV protection role and so have been used very commonly in almost all skin conditions like hyperpigmentation, anti-aging, photo ageing, post acne scars, etc.

“Vitamin C promotes healing and diminishes the appearance of scars”

Vitamin C is a miracle ingredient that everyone is raving about. Here are some of the benefits of topical application of vitamin C:

● It facilitates the production of collagen, which keeps skin smooth and supple. Applying topical vitamin C regularly can boost the production of collagen, thereby reducing fine lines and wrinkles and improving skin texture in the long run.

● It also gives visibly brighter, glowing skin with regular use by inhibiting the amount of melanin the skin produces.

● It protects against environmental stressors by fighting against free radicals from pollution and ultraviolet light, which cause dullness, pigmentation and wrinkles. Vitamin C protects the skin and reduces or delays visible signs of skin ageing.

● It boosts the efficacy of sunscreen.

Various studies show that the UVA and UVB rays from the sun and blue light from smart devices cause damage to the skin.

While wearing sunscreen is absolutely imperative for skin protection, you can significantly boost your sunscreen’s efficacy by adding a layer of vitamin C.

● It promotes healing and diminishes the appearance of scars. Topical and concentrated application of vitamin C has been known to promote the healing of wounds and reduce the appearance of scars, as it helps the body produce collagen, which in turn, helps repair and restore the skin.

Active forms of vitamin C

● Kascorbic acid: Works well for oily normal skin, however it can irritate dry/ sensitive skins. It is formulated well at a pH of less than 4. It has great anti-aging benefits.

● Sodium ascorbyl phosphate: It is more stable, less potent and great for sensitive skin.

● Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate:

It is the most stable form of Vitamin C, more hydrating with anti-inflammatory properties. It can be used in water-based formulations. It is good for acne prone skin as it can prevent oxidation.

● Sodium ascorbate: It is less potent and more stable. It can be paired with vitamin E for UV defence and overall protection.

● Calcium ascorbate: It is non-irritating and good for all skin types as it reduces pigmentation, promotes collagen production thus reducing fine lines

● Ascorbyl palmitate: It is non-irritating, more stable and milder. It works for skin brightening and anti-ageing.

● Lascorbic acid and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate: They work well for oily acne prone skin as they prevent oxidation that leads to black heads.

Vitamin C treats acne scars by increasing the synthesis of collagen, a protein responsible for your skin’s structure and vital for rebuilding healthy skin. As a result, it accelerates the healing of acne scars. Vitamin C combined with microneedling gives better improvement in acne scars as it promotes healing and boosts collagen production.

Contraindications for use of vitamin C

Any hypersensitivity to vitamin c such as itching, hives, redness and tingling. Vitamin C should not be paired with benzoyl peroxide as they oxidise each other’s actions, making each other ineffective; retinoids as it can cause peeling, redness and irritation; niacinamide as they mask each other’s benefits, making each other ineffective; and HAs/BHAs as they cause skin irritation.